Hey everyone! We’ve been working nice long 16 hour days while both moving into the new shop and working on filling the tremendous volume of orders we’ve been experiencing (thank you all for that!). This new shop space will give us both the space and the added time/productivity to continue to fill orders quickly and develop some awesome new products that we’re excited to announce in the coming months.
The biggest trend at SEMA, no surprise is overfenders. What started out as a utility to get more track width out of a race car has turned into its own multi-million dollar industry within, taking over everything from classic Camaros to Lamborghinis, and everything in between.
Hey everyone, just a quick FYI, we will be out at the SEMA Show in Las Vegas this coming week. If you’re going to be out at SEMA, give us a shout on social media or via email. If you’re not going to make it out there this year, be sure to check our Facebook, Instagram, and right here on our blog to see daily photo coverage of the cars, booths, and people.
If you place an order during this time, please give us a couple extra days to ship it out, since we will be out of town and not able to process orders until Monday. Standard length sweater support rods are processed through our film in network, so they should ship out as normally scheduled.
With the introduction of our GT500 Brembo Brake Kit, there have been a lot of questions about what the total cost will be to put these on your car, start to finish. Here are some sample configurations, complete with price breakdown and part numbers.
Hey everyone! Now that the final designs and prototypes are done, we are all ready to go with our GT500 Brembo Kit. I know that a lot of you have been waiting very patiently, and I have spoken to many of you personally over the phone, so I know that we have had a huge demand for this kit to finally be brought to market. I’m excited to say that we’re finally rolling into the production stage!
Pre-orders are subject to discounted pricing of $375 (list price: $450). We expect to ship the first production kits on October 1st. They will ship out on a first come, first serve basis, so we will ship the kits out in the order that we receive the requests.
A set of 3/4 inch custom spacers (included) are required to use this kit. This will add to your wheel’s offset, so plan accordingly.
This kit requires the use of 18″ wheels. Since wheels vary from brand to brand, we cannot guarantee fitment for any specific set of wheels. Based on Ford’s specifications listed here, the Ford Racing M-1007-S1895 and M-1007-S1895B 18″ wheels, or equivalent, have been verified to work.
Our kit includes the necessary adapter bracket, spacer, and hardware, but not the calipers, rotors, lines, or pads. You will need to source the following:
S197 GT500 4-piston Brembo calipers
S197 (2007-2012 GT500 or 2012-2013 Boss 302) 13.97″ brake rotors
SN95 Cobra or stainless steel brake lines
We expect to ship the first kits October 1st. They will be shipped on a first-come, first-served basis, meaning
that your pre-order will secure your spot in line.
We recently opened up pre-orders for our new SN95 Watts Link. The purpose of this post is to go through the design step-by-step and discuss the engineering behind what we’ve created.
Part I: Conception & Goal
In 2014, we first started development on our Watts Link. There are currently a few SN95 watts link’s on the market, but they all lacked a few features that we wanted to see. Our #1 concern was the following problem: no current Watts link on the market was able to locate the car’s rear roll center lower than a Panhard rod. While the Panhard rod is good solution for rear axle lateral location, it compromises on a couple areas. First off, a Panhard rod, by nature, does not have identical cornering characteristics left and right. When compressed, the axle will be laterally offset to the left, and when decompressed, the axle will be offset to the right. When cornering, this issue becomes even more complex, as the mounting point on the chassis is moved relative to the axle and the axle deviates from its proper location.
A Watts Linkage, in contrast, provides identical cornering characteristics left and right. This concept was invented by James Watt himself (hence the name).
Clearly, the Watts Linkage is an ideal method of laterally locating the axle, due to its consistent horizontal location throughout articulation.
Our goal is to combine the best of both worlds: Pair the superior cornering characteristics of the Watts Link with the lower roll center of the Panhard rod, previously impossible to obtain with a Watts Link.
Part II: Differential Mounting Plate
We’ll start at the center of the part. Our differential plate mounts to a Strange R5234 differential cover. This cover is part of the “Ultimate 8.8″ axle package, and has built-in mounting holes intended for an axle brace. We thought this would be the perfect cover to accommodate our mounting plate.
This plate is secured to the differential housing at four different places. One bolt in each corner. We also put in clearance holes for the axle girdle bolts, so that the plate is not being secured to the differential using the girdle bolts and introducing unwanted stress to the the differential itself. This way, the user does not run the risk of shearing their axle girdle bolts.
The differential backing plate has five different bell crank mounting positions, allowing a 4.5″ range of roll center adjustment. When mounted on 315/35/17 tires, this comes out to a 7.5″ roll center at the lowest setting, and a 12″ roll center at the highest setting.
This is the widest and most flexible range of adjustment of any SRA lateral-locating device on the market.
Part III: Bell Crank
The initial design for our bell crank was a 1/2″ threaded aluminum plate. This bell cranked function correctly, however we have since redesigned it for even more strength, rigidity, and overall sexiness.
The bell crank is available with three different bushing packages, depending on application:
Street: Polyurethane center bushing to combat vibration and noise
Performance: Delrin bushings and PTFE rod ends for stiffer movement
Race: Self-lubricating bronze bushings and bronze rod ends for ideal stiffness where noise is not an issue.
Part IV: Chassis Brackets
Our chassis brackets are laser-cut, TIG welded, and powder coated, providing maximum strength and a clean appearance. We have also added red anodized ID plates with laser-engraved part number, serial number, and QR code. The QR code allows us to keep careful track of all production data including date of fabrication, materials used, machine settings, etc.
Part V: The Results
In July of 2014, we sent our prototype watts link down to Brett at BTM Autosport in San Diego. Brett had previously ran a competing part, but by switching to the FTR part he found even more grip due to the increased rigidity and lighter weight of the FTR piece.
“Going from the Fays2 Watts Link to the Fully Torqued Racing Watts Link changed the car’s handling characteristics drastically. We used the same roll center height we had on the Fays and the car had so much rear end grip it produced understeer. ” – Brett Madsen, BTM Autosport
Since the installation of the FTR watts link prototype, Brett’s team has achieved the following victories:
2014 CP National Tour Champion
2015 SCCA CP National Tour Champion
2015 SCCA CP ProSolo Champion
2014 SCCA SU Regional Champion
The prototype version of the Watts Link on BTM Autosport’s car differs from the production version, which includes a more robust bell crank, laser cut brackets, and a lateral support. However, we told Brett to be as hard on the Watts Link as possible, and he has provided. After each race, the Watts Link has been inspected and has shown no signs of wear, flexing, or cracking.
Here is a video of the prototype in action:
As you can see, there is a bit of flex in the bell crank, so we have since upgraded it. However the function and strength has proven to be quite sufficient.
Installation guide for our SN95 Front Tow Hook Kit, available here: http://www.fullytorquedracing.com/sn95-towhook-front.html
SN95 Front Tow Hook Installation Instructions
Disconnect the battery to prevent accidental airbag deployment.
Remove the front bumper. Instructions can be found online or on page 11-6 of the Haynes Repair manual
Mock up the tow hook bracket in the desired location. Put the bumper back on the car to check clearance and make adjustments. Cut away styrofoam as needed. This is important to insure a proper fit.
Drill/punch two 1/2 inch diameter holes, 3 inches apart vertically in the front steel crash bumper, approximately 1” to the outside of the bumper cover support (as pictured) or in a desired alternate location.
Bolt bracket to the crash bumper with provided hardware. The washers and nut should be on the inside of the crash bumper.
Adjust tow hook orientation with included jam nut
Replace the bumper, opposite of removal.
1x Tow hook
1x Tow hook mounting bracket 2x Jam nut
2x 1/2in grade 8 bolt
2x 1/2in grade 8 nut
2x 1/2in washer