14″ Brembo Brakes for Under $1000

Last Updated: 2018

With the introduction of our GT500 Brembo Brake Kit, there have been a lot of questions about what the total cost will be to put these on your car, start to finish. Here are some sample configurations, complete with price breakdown and part numbers.


Race Setup

  • FTR Brembo Kit – $349.99
    ARP Extended Studs (add-on) – $34.99
    Genuine FoMoCo Brembo calipers w/ retaining pins (add-on) – $779.99
  • StopTech Slotted 14″ GT500 rotor (Amazon) – $99.71
  • Hawk Brake Pads (Fully Torqued Racing) – $137.47
  • Stainless brake lines (Fully Torqued Racing) – $84.95

Grand Total: $1487.10


Budget Race Setup

  • FTR Brembo Kit – $349.99
    ARP Extended Studs (add-on) – $34.99
  • Remanufactured Brembo Calipers (AutoZone) – $97.99 (+$30 core) each
  • Pad retaining pins – $49.99
  • Stock style Cobra brake lines (AutoZone) – $14.99 each
  • StopTech Slotted 14″ GT500 rotor (Amazon) – $99.71
  • Hawk Brake Pads (Fully Torqued Racing) – $137.47

Grand Total: $887.11 ($947.11 before core)



Grand Total: $2,807.64

Tutorial: SN95 Mustang Quick Release Bumper with Quarter-Turn Fasteners

Posted a few pics a while ago and meant to do a write-up, but never got around to it. This is a really easy and useful mod, all the holes are already drilled out you just need to bore them larger. Also, this still maintains the two nuts on the inside of each side of the bumper. If you want to replace them with quarter turn fasteners its pretty easy, I didn’t just for looks and its not hard to undo four nuts with an electric ratchet.

All you need:
Self ejecting fasteners (Summit racing part number SUM-G1620)
Weld plates (Summit racing part number SUM-G1626)
1/8″ or 3/16″ rivets

Total price: $35

There are 8 total attachment points. Two on the top center in the engine bay, two per side on the inner fender, and two on the bottom to the lower radiator support.


Drill out the stock plastic fasteners, then bore the hole out to 1/2″. Then drill two holes for your rivets in the plates and the upper grill, line everything up, and rivet the weld plate to the underside of the upper grill.

Bore out existing fasteners holes, a countersink also helps the dzus fastener sit flush. The existing holes in the fender should be fine to use, same deal as with the top. Drill out holes for rivets and then rivet to line everything up.

I don’t have any pictures of the bottom, but there’s two tabs there already, you just need to do the same bore/drill/rivet thing as with the top and sides. Any other questions let me know!