We spent some time with a local filmmaker, Derek Maves, working on this little 30-second promo for FTR, showcasing some of what we do. Give it a watch!
If you want to check out more of Derek’s work, check him out here: http://www.youtube.com/user/zerek44
Installation guide for our SN95 Front Tow Hook Kit, available here: http://www.fullytorquedracing.com/sn95-towhook-front.html
SN95 Front Tow Hook Installation Instructions
- Disconnect the battery to prevent accidental airbag deployment.
- Remove the front bumper. Instructions can be found online or on page 11-6 of the Haynes Repair manual
- Mock up the tow hook bracket in the desired location. Put the bumper back on the car to check clearance and make adjustments. Cut away styrofoam as needed. This is important to insure a proper fit.
- Drill/punch two 1/2 inch diameter holes, 3 inches apart vertically in the front steel crash bumper, approximately 1” to the outside of the bumper cover support (as pictured) or in a desired alternate location.
- Bolt bracket to the crash bumper with provided hardware. The washers and nut should be on the inside of the crash bumper.
- Adjust tow hook orientation with included jam nut
- Replace the bumper, opposite of removal.
1x Tow hook
1x Tow hook mounting bracket 2x Jam nut
2x 1/2in grade 8 bolt
2x 1/2in grade 8 nut
2x 1/2in washer
- Standard socket set
- Adjustable wrench
- 1/2in drill or punch
Ford Mustang 1994-2004 Track use only
© 2013-2015 Fully Torqued Racing Rocklin, California
A while back we developed a tubular bumper (aka “bash bar”) for SN95 chassis mustangs, and we’ve now released a new, updated version.
It weighs in at 4.5 pounds, less than half the weight of the stock assembly that it replaces (~12lbs). This weight is critical, especially since its directly on the nose of an already front-heavy car.
1) Jack up car, remove front wheels.
2) Remove stock caliper and rotor.
3) Install bracket to rear of spindle at stock caliper location using two M12 flange bolts and two M12 flange nuts. Apply Loctite thread locker
4) Install rotor
5) Install caliper on bracket using the provided m12 bolts and caliper spacers. Apply loctite.
6) Reinstall pads, wheels, etc.
Posted a few pics a while ago and meant to do a write-up, but never got around to it. This is a really easy and useful mod, all the holes are already drilled out you just need to bore them larger. Also, this still maintains the two nuts on the inside of each side of the bumper. If you want to replace them with quarter turn fasteners its pretty easy, I didn’t just for looks and its not hard to undo four nuts with an electric ratchet.
All you need:
Self ejecting fasteners (Summit racing part number SUM-G1620)
Weld plates (Summit racing part number SUM-G1626)
1/8″ or 3/16″ rivets
Total price: $35
There are 8 total attachment points. Two on the top center in the engine bay, two per side on the inner fender, and two on the bottom to the lower radiator support.
Drill out the stock plastic fasteners, then bore the hole out to 1/2″. Then drill two holes for your rivets in the plates and the upper grill, line everything up, and rivet the weld plate to the underside of the upper grill.
Bore out existing fasteners holes, a countersink also helps the dzus fastener sit flush. The existing holes in the fender should be fine to use, same deal as with the top. Drill out holes for rivets and then rivet to line everything up.
I don’t have any pictures of the bottom, but there’s two tabs there already, you just need to do the same bore/drill/rivet thing as with the top and sides. Any other questions let me know!